As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — at no extra cost to you.
Haier washing machines flag faults with an “Err” code followed by a number — Err1, Err2, Err5 and so on — and once you know what each points to, most of the common ones are quick to sort at home. If your Haier has stopped and is showing a code, it’s protecting itself and telling you which system needs attention. This guide explains the common Haier washing machine error codes, what each means, and the first fix to try before calling for service.
How Haier error codes work
Most Haier machines show codes as “Err” plus a number on the display; some series use a plain E-prefix (E2, E4) or higher codes like E10 and E13, and the newest models use short abbreviations such as Unb (unbalanced) or CLR FLTR (clean filter). In practice Err2 and E2 usually mean the same thing — the difference is just the electronics generation. Write the exact code down before you start. One Haier-specific point worth knowing: current Haier machines use brushless Direct Motion (direct-drive inverter) motors with no carbon brushes, so a motor code never means worn brushes the way it can on some other brands.
Haier washing machine error codes at a glance
| Code | What it means | Try this first |
|---|---|---|
| Err1 | Door not closed / lock fault | Close firmly until it clicks; check the latch |
| Err2 | Not draining | Clean the drain filter; check the drain hose |
| Err3 | Temperature sensor fault | Technician |
| Err4 | Overflow / excess foam | Use less detergent; run a rinse to clear suds |
| Err5 | Fill fault — not reaching water level | Open taps; check hoses and inlet filter |
| Err6 | Heating fault | Technician |
| Err7 | Motor speed fault | Reset once; usually needs a technician |
| Err8 | Water level above safe limit | Technician (level sensor/valve) |
| E13 | Lint buildup (washer-dryers) | Run a vinegar+towel cycle; check cold supply |
| Unb | Unbalanced load | Redistribute clothes; check the machine is level |
Codes vary by series and year. Confirm against your model’s manual; a useful cross-reference is this Haier error-code guide.
Door won’t lock: Err1
Err1 is one of the most common Haier codes and means the machine can’t confirm the door is closed and locked, so it won’t start. Push the door firmly until you hear the latch click, and check that nothing — a sleeve, a strap, the gasket itself — is trapped in the seal. Cycle the power (off and on) to let it re-check. If the door clicks shut but Err1 stays, the door-lock interlock may have worn out, which is a part replacement rather than an adjustment.
Not draining: Err2
Err2 means the water isn’t draining. This is usually a quick fix: open the small flap at the bottom front, keep a tray and towel ready, and unscrew the drain-pump filter to clear lint, coins and debris. Then check the drain hose isn’t kinked, crimped, or pushed too far into the standpipe. These checks clear most Err2 cases. If the filter and hose are clean and it returns, the drain pump may need replacing.
Won’t fill: Err5
Err5 means the machine isn’t reaching the expected water level within the fill time. Check both that the supply taps are fully open and that the inlet hoses aren’t kinked or crimped, then clean the mesh inlet filter where the hose meets the machine. One specific tip for Haier: avoid flood-safe (anti-flood) inlet hoses, as they restrict water flow and can trigger Err5. Low mains pressure is another common cause. If supply and filters are fine and Err5 persists, the inlet valve may be at fault.
Excess foam: Err4
Err4 typically points to overflow or excess foam — too much detergent, or a non-HE detergent producing more suds than the machine can handle. Reduce your detergent dose, switch to a high-efficiency formula if your model needs one, and run a rinse cycle with no clothes to clear the foam. Measuring detergent rather than pouring by eye keeps this from recurring.
Lint code on washer-dryers: E13
If you have a Haier washer-dryer, E13 is caused by a buildup of lint affecting the drying function. It can often be cleared by running a short cycle with a single towel and a cup of white vinegar in the drum — the vinegar helps break down the fibres reducing lint — and by confirming the machine is correctly connected to the cold water supply.
The technician codes: Err3, Err6, Err7, Err8
A handful of Haier codes point to internal parts that aren’t safe or practical to fix at home. Err3 is a temperature-sensor fault, Err6 a heating fault, Err7 a motor-speed fault (and remember, on Haier’s brushless Direct Motion motors this isn’t about carbon brushes), and Err8 a water-level fault where the level exceeds the safe value. Try one reset in case the code is a momentary glitch; if it returns, book a qualified technician rather than continuing to run the machine.
How to reset a Haier washing machine
After fixing the cause, reset to clear the code:
- Switch the machine off and unplug it (or turn off the socket).
- Wait about a minute for the electronics to power down.
- Plug back in, power on, select a programme and start.
If the code returns straight away, the fault is still live. For the general approach across machine types, see our easy washing machine reset guide, and if yours is a connected model, our guide on using a smart washing machine covers app-based controls.
Repair or replace? When a code means it’s time
Err1, Err2, Err4 and Err5 are cheap fixes — door, filter, detergent and hoses. But heating, motor and level-sensor codes (Err6, Err7, Err8) on an older machine can mean a repair bill that approaches the price of a new unit once parts and labour are counted. If you’re facing a recurring electrical fault on a Haier that’s already several years old, get a replacement quote first. You can compare current washing machine prices on Amazon India (or browse models available globally) to weigh repair against replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does Err1 mean on a Haier washing machine?
Err1 is a door fault — the machine can’t confirm the door is closed and locked. Close it firmly until it clicks, check nothing is caught in the seal, and cycle the power. If it persists, the door-lock interlock may need replacing.
How do I fix the Err2 error on a Haier washer?
Err2 is a drain fault. Clean the drain-pump filter behind the bottom-front flap and check the drain hose isn’t kinked or pushed too far into the standpipe. If it returns after that, the drain pump may need service.
Why does my Haier show Err5?
Err5 is a fill fault — the machine isn’t reaching the set water level. Open the taps fully, check the inlet hoses aren’t kinked, and clean the inlet filter. Avoid anti-flood inlet hoses, as they restrict flow and can trigger Err5.
Is Err and E the same on Haier machines?
Generally yes. Err2 and E2 (for example) usually refer to the same fault; the difference is just the electronics generation of your model. Always confirm against your specific manual.
The bottom line
Haier’s Err codes sort neatly: Err1 (door), Err2 (drain), Err4 (foam) and Err5 (fill) are the DIY-friendly ones that trace to the latch, the filter, your detergent and the water supply, while Err3, Err6, Err7 and Err8 are electrical faults for a technician. Note the exact code, treat Err and E versions as the same, and reset once after fixing the cause — that handles the large majority of Haier faults without a service call.